The Tibetans:
We only met exiled Tibetans that escaped the genocide the Chinese are doing in Tibet. There are more than 2 million Tibetans missing. Probably most of them are dead after being tortured in the most painful ways only the Chinese are able to invent and, even worse, execute.
Mainly Buddhists. They believe that every bad thing that happens to you comes to make a good quality in you stronger. For example, The Dalai Lama (HH, His Holiness) says that He appreciates the Chinese, since they help him developing his patience.
Extremely friendly, polite and nice persons. Wonderful sense of humor and sometimes very naughty.
They are educated from the very beginning to eradicate their ego. They take care of each other.
They don't know how to take compliments; If you say a restaurant cook “- what a wonderful meal you made us!! Thanks” he would look at you, smiling and would not answer. They just don't know what it means or what to do with that.
An annoying fact: On every crappy map I've checked, Tibet is not drawn, but as an integral part of China. On the other hand, all maps bother to paint the Golan as a part of Syria, Gaza as a part of Egypt and the west bank as a part of Jordan. Israel area is 1/500 of Tibet. Losy cowards motherfuckers!
McLeod-Ganj – Dharamsala:
Also known as Little Lhasa, is the location of the exiled Tibetan government. It is a small town where the Tibetans that succeed escaping from Tibet first arrive. They meet HH (he meets each one of them as they arrive Dharamsala!!) and He helps them get started in their new hometown.
Most of McLeod habitants are Tibetans. There are also some Indian, most of the Indian live 1 Km away from McLeod though, in a place named Bhagsu. There is a tense relationship between these two peaceful peoples. The Tibetans are very united so the Indians use to say they are 'No me but a huge us'. The police forbids hanging around in the streets after 23:30, to avoid vandalism acts (which had occurred before). If you get to your guesthouse after 23:30 you'd probably find the main gate locked.
Many attempts have been made by the Tibetan leaders to settle an arrangement that would be acceptable to both China and them. Eight round of talks took place since early 90's but no progress done. The official Chinese stand is that HH is a terrorist and the Tibetans cannot be trusted. The Chinese are just a bunch of cynical greed so called communists that are interested on depleting Tibet on one hand and expand China borders to India, Nepal and other countries in Tibet vicinity on the other.
The Tibetans decided to act alone, since the Chinese are not really up to any kind of arrangement. A great meeting took place on November 2008. For the meeting arrived to Dharamsala Tibetans and pro-Tibet activists from all over the world. In the same month also we arrived there. When we got to McLeod there was no place to stay.
The first two nights we staid in the Bhagsu hotel, with TV in the room and monkeys in the garden. We had a nice time there, resting from the traumatic journey to Dharamsala. We saw a movie about two ladies that have a car accident, very crazy movie.
Now, with a roof over our heads, we could take a look around. The town is shared by Tibetans, Indian, Nepalis, Eagles, Crows, Monkeys, Cows, Dogs and tourists.
It has a breathtaking view of three mountain chains that run in paralel. All part of the lower Himalayas. The near one is the one McLeod itself is built on, together with Bhagsu and Dharmakot. Then there's a green chain and on the background you can see a white and gray chain.
After resting we changed 100 u$s at 'Thomas Hook' and 100 u$s at 'Paul Merchants' so we could find out where is the best place to change money (Thomas Hook wins by little) and went to eat.
Our first meal at McLeod Ganj was at the Tea o'clock restaurant. We immediately understood we were in a culinary heaven and that eating will become an important component of this chapter in our trip.
While having a room somewhere, we found a room at Tibetan Ashoka guesthouse, for 350 Rs the night. Since we paid 400 Rs at Delhi (for a shit hole without windows) and 720 Rs at the Bhagsu hotel, we were sure this guesthouse was very cheap. We'd soon learn we were mistaken. The guesthouse had many balconies with great views of the Himalayas. In the room we got a metalic closet and Shubalino decided this is his laundry drier.
At the beginning we walked around, without getting away from the town.
McLeod Ganj consists of two main roads. Jogiwara road runs from the main square (nothing else, but a relative wide parking lot, where parking is forbiden, used to load the public buses with people until there is no room in the bus for a fly.) to lower Dharamsala.
Temple road runs from the main square to the temple and the residence of HH (the Dalai Lama).
At the first 100 meters from the main square, both roads run in parallel, providing the frame of the market of the town. You can get there all kind of Tibetan and Nepali goods, a few indian shops and nothing from China. There are also a few restaurants, some really good like Mc LLO, the mentioned T o'clock, Norling, Snow Lion and more.
30 mts from the main square there is a temple under construction. Seing the workers there reminds me the Israeli style, six look while one works, with only one difference: the one that works is consistently missing. In a month we've been there I could notice very little progress.
Every place that has a door changes money. Is like everybody there does something plus forex.
At the end of the market place there is a Tibetan clinic. The doctor there is a wonderful woman with a very fine sense of humor that yelled at me on regular basis as she saw Shubalino without socks.
There are also two cellular phones distributors, where I got a mobile and a sim for only 1700 Rs, around 150 NIS. The nice thing they have, is that my line is good for only one year, then it expires and the number goes back to !dea, the service provider. I guess they have no other option in a country with 1500 milion potential customers.
Oh! I almost forgot. By the main square there are two places where they sell delicious cakes full of cream and edible colorants, non of them natural, don't worry. In general there is a trend among the Tibetan, all of them make cakes. Some of them make delicious cakes. The cakes by the main square are made by Indians, though.
After a few days at McLeod Ganj it was widely agreed that I'm carrying too much hair on my head. I went to an Indian barber to get my hair cut and my face shaved. It was a nice experience. At the beginning the hair dresser explained my possibilities. I can get a indian hair cut, or like this guy (a guy sitting next to me with an afro curly hair...) or other option that said even less than the indian hair cut. So I picked the Indian.
Then came the turn of the barber. This is really an experience. He shows you he is opening a new knife, which made me suspicious about something I wasn't till then. After washing my face with soap and hot water twice, he spread shaving foam and started shaving. Then he washed my face again, spread another round of foam and another shave. A face massage began after my face was dried and washed with aftershave lotion. The dessert was a head massage that I believe made me forget some stuff.
I felt very light after my visit to the hair dresser. The next day I bought a Gillete Mach3 though.
Before
After the Indian hair dresser
The first walk we did out in the wild, was still very near the town. We didn't mean to see anything green at all, but we startred walking on a road that went down in very steep way for returning the way up with Shubalino on my back. So we decided to abort mission. Instead of returning through the same road, we got off road into a green path, beautiful. With mini watermelons and a dog puppy and an Indian puppy that played together.
When we got back to the town, my love went to an internet place and the men went to the Chocolate Log, or shoclogloglog if you ask Shubalino. Very nice place ran by a fine Indian lady with sweet cakes and hot chocolate.
Our first visit to Bhagsu:
Four roads, in addition to Jogiwara and Temple roads, begin at the main square. The Bhagsu road to Bhagsu, the Dharmakot road to Dharmakot, the TIPA road to TIPA, as you can see, they don't have lots of martyrs, politicians and scientists for giving names to their roads (in the Tibetan case they have too many, sadly).... Oh, and the long way to Dharamsala, which has lots attractions before it gets to its destination.
The 21st of November we took the first road on the right.
The walk lasted 1.5Km, mainly up but not steep. We saw a nice carpenter place by the road, just there.
We got to a town. It looked like an offseason tourist village. Empty restaurants, lots of shops closed, locals playing criket in the street and a small number of rickshaws. As we kept going, it became more like an Israeli offseason town. We found a Beit Habad, a restaurant with kosher meat, falafel and, of course, all the town had signs in Hebrew.
We saw an intresting temple which we decided to come especially to visit it later.
We kept uphill until no cars could get to where we were heading. Oh! We actually were looking for a waterfall that happened to be around there, but not exactly where we were.
We got to a beautiful neighborhood with great view and very nice houses. Sleeping there costed half than at McLeod. At the beginning we considered staying there, but no roads means no lights at night. Meaning we had to be back home at half past six.
Shubalino took us to a walk around this neighborhood. It was great, just following him.
On the way back we met a Japanese journalist that was very surprised our visit had nothing to do with the Dalai Lama and that we didn't even know he lives there until we got there.
We also met an orthodox jew named Uri. He invited us to a Kabalat Shabat at Beit Habad. We said we'd like to, mainly because Shubalino loves it.
Our first take away:
While in Bhagsu we were hungry so we decided it is time for lunch. But the empty restaurants, the electricity shortages and the hygienic customs of the locals pushed us back to our town.
We went to a highly recommended restaurant. My love's food was OK, mine was fine and Shubalino felt asleep We asked them to pack Shubalino's meal so we could feed him when he wakes up and finds out we are no longer in a restaurant. They immediately took his meal and went to prepare it for delivery. They came back with his food packed. I think that the way the Indians share their cities with cows, dogs, monkeys, cats, crows and other non humans creatures sometimes confuses them. Shubalino is indeed a cab, but in a metaphoric way. His food was packed in a Pedigry bag. I want his skin-coat to be healthy but not shiny.
Shubalino having his meal after he woke up:
Take a closer look, please:
Now, the question I have is: “-What is a Pedigry pack doing in the kitchen of the restaurant??”
... to be continued ...